Red River Camps

Main Lodge at Red River Camps

For our summer vacation this year, Bethany and I decided to relive memorable experiences we had in 2001 and 2002 - a trip to Red River Camps (RRC).  RRC is a remote sporting camp located in the Deboullie Public Reserved Land in T15, R9.  For those of you not familiar with what T15, R9 is, it stands for Township 15, Range 9 and it's an unorganized township in northern Maine about 20 miles from the Canadian border.

In 2001, Bethany and I and our Golden Retriever Bud visited RRC for the first time.  We stayed in the Island Cabin.  Yes, it is on an island and the only access is via canoe from the dock at the main lodge, unless you are a good swimmer, then I suppose you could do your best Michael Phelps impersonation to get there.  The second year, we stayed in Upper on the mainland, for two reasons.  One, it was more convenient than having to paddle back to shore every time you wanted to go anywhere and two, it was also the year Bethany was pregnant with Ashton.

These experiences have stuck with us since we first visited, and many times over the years we kept saying we were going to go back.  Well, this year we did and we brought Ashton who is now 11 and Nickel, our 4-year-old Golden.  Once again we stayed in Upper because we like this cabin with its bunkroom and full kitchen.  Plus it was convenient to walk down to the dock and dive into the pond to cool off anytime we wanted - something we did a lot during our visit.

From the L/A area (that's Maine lingo for Lewiston/Auburn Area), it took about 6 hours to drive to RRC with periodic bathroom breaks for us and the dog.  We drove I-95 to Sherman, to Route 11 North to Portage. Then we took a left at Dean's Motor Lodge and drove about 4 miles to the Fish River Checkpoint where you have to check in and pay a fee to access the North Maine Woods.  The fee was $50 and it is a usage fee to travel through paper company land.

The North Maine Woods is about 3.5 million acres of working forest land.  It is primarily owned by paper companies so there are rules of the road to remember when traveling across their property.  The most important rule is that the logging trucks have the right of way, so when you seen them coming, pull over and let them pass.  

View up the hill to Upper (on right) and Denny (on Left).

The camp sits on the shore of Island Pond and includes the main lodge and eight cabins built from hand-hewn logs.  Some of the cabins date back to 1886.  The cabins all have different shapes and sizes and different setups, but they all have hot and cold running water, propane lights and woodstoves for those cooler nights, if you happen to be there in the shoulder seasons.     

Fortunately for us, we were there in the peak of summer.  The temperatures were in the 80s and we had a constant breeze that kept the air circulating both inside and outside the cabin.  Our first order of business was to check in with Jen Brophy, the owner, she's the daughter of Mike Brophy who ran the camps when we first visited back in 2001 & 2002.  Then it was down to the dock for a swim in the pond.

Pushineer Pond Boat Launch with Deboullie Mtn. in Background

After supper we strolled down around the corner to Pushineer Pond.  Years ago when we first visited, if you wanted to drive the road around Pushineer and over to Deboullie Lake and the trail head for Deboullie Mountain, you had to drive through the Red River which begins as an outlet to Pushineer Pond.  A few years ago the State built a bridge, so the crossing went from precarious to smooth sailing.

 

The next day, our goal was to visit the "Ice Cave" and summit Deboullie Mountain.   It was hot, but there was a breeze, so we doused ourselves in DEET and drove to the trail head.  Even with the bug spray, the mosquitoes and deer flies practiced their dive bombing skills and kept buzzing by our ears just to let us know to keep our guard up. 

Looking west across Deboullie Lake to Gardner Mtn.

Looking east across Deboullie towards Pushineer Pond

Water break in the "Bug Free Zone"

The trail is about a 2.5 mile hike through the woods, across the rock slide and practically straight up the mountain.  The wooded path follows the shoreline of Deboullie Lake for about a mile and a half.  It crosses the rock slide at about the mile and a half mark.  Besides the views, the rock slide was a "bug free zone" so we savored that moment before delving back into the forest and up the mountainside.

When I say up the mountainside, this is no exaggeration.  From the lake to the summit is a strenuous hike for nearly a mile.  I have to give my family credit (including Nickel) for persevering and making it to the top.  At the summit, I was the only one to brave the climb up into the fire tower.  It was straight up and the breeze was pretty brisk, but the views from atop the tower were beautiful.  For me, the view of the vast expanse of green wooded mountains and sparkling lakes was well worth the trip.

View of Gardner Pond from the fire tower

View of Deboullie with Black to left and Pushineer to Right

Ashton attempting the tower climb

The descent was less strenuous, but the bugs were a bit more annoying, probably because we were all sweating and the bug spray was wearing off.  At the foot of the mountain, it didn't take Nickel  much coaxing to cool his paws in the lake.  He just walked into the water and stood there, something I probably would have done if I had a change of clothes with me.

Nickel cooling down at the foot of the mountain

Ashton cooling off by the ice caves

We stopped by the ice caves and let the cool draft cool our heals a bit before heading back to camp.  Even on July 1st with temperatures in the 80s, there was ice in the caves.  We're told it's a great place to keep a bottle of water you can enjoy on the return hike from the mountain.  Too bad we didn't take that advice.  We were stuck with the warm water that went up and down the mountain with us.

When we returned to camp, it didn't take us long to shed our hiking gear and dive into the refreshing pond.  The water temperature was cool, but not cold, so we spent a good amount of time in the water during our stay.

Up to this point we had stayed in Red River Camps and drove across the Red River to go hiking, so it was only appropriate that we played in Red River Falls for a bit.  A few hundred yards down the road from the camps was Red River Falls.  It isn't a swimming hole, but you can wade in the river and sit in the falls as is evidenced by the photos below.

Ashton at Red River Falls

Steve cooling off

Surrounded by the raging river (Ok, raging may be an exaggeration)

Later in the day Bethany and I did some paddling around Island Pond.  When we paddled away from the shore, Nickel (who won't let Bethany out of his site for a minute) took off through the woods trying to catch us on land while we paddled across the pond.  He seemed determined not to let Bethany out of his site.  When we got back from our paddle we learned that Ashton, running barefoot through the woods, and Gloria, one of our Red River hosts, had to trudge through the woods to catch him.

On our final night, we took a drive by the other lakes in the area, commenting on which campsites were the best.  The waterfront ones always ranked high.  Then, after three nights, we packed up the car and headed home, happy we had the opportunity to introduce our son to this special place.   

Red River is a wonderful place where you can escape the daily routine and experience the North Maine Woods in a rustic log cabin, but with basic amenities.  You can let your everyday stresses melt away and just take in the peacefulness and beauty of your surroundings.  Take a dip in the pond.  Listen to the wind rustling the tree leaves or the woodpecker tapping out its own form of Morse Code in a nearby tree.  Read a book on the porch.  Go out at night and look up into the vast universe to see stars you haven't seen before.  These are some of the simple things that made for a memorable vacation.

Parting pictures:

The garden in front of the Galilee cabin

Sunset at Red River Camps

Boathouse reflection in placid Island Pond

Imagine jumping into the cool lake from the end of this dock

Ashton and his stuffed animal entourage settled in on the top bunk

View of Main Lodge from the Boathouse

Bethany, Ashton and Nickel on the steps of Upper

Steve and Ashton on the porch of Upper

Maine Town Shorts

Sunset on Route 9 (The Airline) in Wesley, Maine

One of the advantages of working for a state tourism office is having the opportunity to travel around the state.  I'd like to share a few images and comments from my excursions for three weeks in May 2014.

Sculpture at UMaine Machias

Machias
On the campus of the University of Maine at Machias stands a  sculpture called the "Islands of Maine" placed here during a rather unique event that takes place in Maine every other year.  It is a stunning reminder of the 2009 Schoodic International Sculpture Symposium.  This fascinating event brings in artists from throughout the world every two years to produced sculptures that are then permanently placed in Downeast Maine communities.  A sculpture trail map is available on the Schoodic International Sculpture Symposium's web site.  The trail map is your guide to a kind of sculpture scavenger hunt through the communities of Washington and Hancock Counties.

While in Machias, we had breakfast at the iconic Helen's Restaurant right on Route 1.  It is one of those places with home cooking including renowned blueberry pies.

Machias also happens to be the home of the Burnham Tavern where a group of citizens and Veterans of the French and Indian War plotted to kill the captain of the British vessel that was anchored in the harbor, forcing them to provide wood for British soldiers' barracks in the Boston area.  The townspeople eventually chased the ship down the river in what is often referred to as the first naval battle of the American Revolution.

University of Maine Museum of Art in Bangor

Bangor
While Portland gets all the big national press about being a liveable city, a foodie city and many other kudos, The Queen City of Bangor is quietly working its way up the food chain to a point where it might soon rival Portland for some of these honors.  The American Folk Festival was the catalyst for the new waterfront concert series that now brings some big name entertainment to the banks of the Penobscot River.  Names like Snoop Dogg, Dave Matthews Band, Boston, Cheap Trick, Foreigner, ZZ Top, Brad Paisley,Willie Nelson and many others.

Franciscan Friars brew and sell their own beer

For a city that claims to be the hometown of Paul Bunyan, it has a lot more to offer than lumber (although it once was the lumber capital of the country).  There's a new contemporary vibe to the city as more and more restaurants pop up.  A lunch spot I recently discovered is Bagel Central on Central Street.  It's in a bright airy space with exposed brick walls, floor to ceiling windows and a large lunch selection.  I like the fact that I can walk from there to the Friars' Bakehouse a couple doors down for a tasty chocolate chip cookie and other fresh baked goods, not to mention their own craft beer.  Yes, we're talking about Franciscan Friars, who operate this small but popular bakery and lunch stop also on Central Street.

There's a great Children's Museum with three floors of interactive exhibits that my son thoroughly enjoyed when he was younger, and professional theater at the Penobscot Theatre Company in the Bangor Opera House, both on Main Street.  Just off I-395, flanked by an army tank on one side and helicopter on the other, is the Cole Transportation Museum. With its trucks, trains, cars, bikes and many other historic modes of transportation, I think it is a hidden gem.  Add to these, Hollywood Casino and the Cross Insurance Center, and you will see this is a thriving little city with lots to keep you occupied.  Next time you're in the area, don't pass it by.

The city common in Waterville

Waterville
The National Trust for Historic Preservation manages a program called The National Main Street Center and Waterville, Maine is one of the cities that has received this honor.  Waterville works hard to hold events that bring many people to the city.  Every year, on the first Wednesday in August, they close off part of Main Street for the Taste of Greater Waterville.  Many of the local restaurants offer up samplings of foods they serve.  It's a great time to bring the family out for food, live music and fun activities.

2 Cent Bridge in Waterville

The Maine International Film Festival is one of Waterville's premier events.  This annual event hits the screens in July, boasting 10 days, 100 films and 50 film makers.  Screenings typically take place at Railroad Square Cinema, the Waterville Opera House and other venues.    

If you're there, take a short walk across the 2 Cent Bridge.  It's a pedestrian footbridge that was built in 1901 as a short cut for workers in downtown Waterville to get to work at the mill across the river in Winslow.  It was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1973, but don't worry, you no longer have to pay 2 cents to get across.

Art lovers should not miss Waterville.  The Colby College Museum of Art just underwent a multimillion dollar renovation making it the largest art museum in the state.  There is no admission, so there is no excuse not to visit.

Main Street in Belfast looking east towards the harbor

Belfast
Much like Bangor, Belfast is another up and coming little city.  Although not as big, it definitely has a lively downtown and funky vibe.

We stopped for lunch at the deli in the Belfast Co-op.  With homemade breads and other fresh, healthy foods, it is a tasty place to get a great meal and support local food producers.

It has all the usual downtown stores and restaurants, including the Colburn Shoe Store which claims to be the "Oldest Shoe Store in America," but with all the popular brands.  There's the Chocolate Drop Candy Shop offering sweet treats including ice cream to cool you down on a hot day, and the Marshall Wharf Brewing Company down on the waterfront.  While you can't buy their beer on site, you can purchase it next door at the 3Tides or up the road at the aforementioned Belfast Co-op.

In the 1800s, Belfast was a thriving shipbuilding community.  In the 1900s it became a prosperous port exporting things like hay, ice, apples and fertilizer.  Eventually poultry, sardine and potato processing plants crowded the waterfront and Belfast was called the Broiler Capital of the World.  In 2011 it became one of 10 nationally designated Main Street communities within the state of Maine.

Sculptures overlooking Rumford Falls

 Rumford
Although it is best known for the huge New Page paper mill, looming over the banks of the Androscoggin River, Rumford is starting to find new ways to attract more visitors.  Since the late 1800s the mill has been the lifeblood of the town, but if you slow down and take a little time to explore the town, you'll find a couple of tourist attractions as well.

On the north side of town is Black Mountain, a big, little ski mountain.  This community ski area has a vertical drop of more than 1,300 feet with a nice variety of trails for beginners and intermediate skiers.  Their ski school program is great for kids, I should know as my son took lessons there for three seasons, and their cross country ski facilities have held world-class events, including the U.S. Cross Country Ski Championships in 2011.  Even better is the price for a day ski ticket, just $15 last year.  Believe me, it is well worth the price.

Rumford Falls is the highest falls east of Niagara with a vertical drop of 176 feet.  By comparison, the American falls (Bridal Veil Falls) is 176 feet high and the Canadian Falls (Horseshoe Falls) is 167 feet, so a vertical of 176 feet in Rumford, Maine is pretty impressive.  Granted, the water flow is less magnificent, but it's still a pretty impressive statistic.  You can picnic at the park next to the river overlooking the falls while taking in the Native American sculptures produced by Eugene Boivin.

Ashton and Paul Bunyan in Rumford

If you stop to see the falls, you also have to get a selfie with the axe-wielding Paul Bunyan statue.  He stands right next to the info center near the falls.

Lots of places claim Paul Bunyan and I won't enter into a debate about where he originated, but in Maine you can view two statues of the famous lumberjack.  One in Bangor and one in Rumford.

There's also 49 Franklin, a reception hall and Mystic Theater run by Scot Grassette who also happens to be a magician.  Scot is part of a grassroots effort to raise awareness of the local arts in the Rumford area.  One of the programs he's trying to get up and running this summer is an outdoor art walk at Hosmer Field, the local recreation field in town.  The vision is to have people walk the paved path enjoying visual artists and performing artists along the way.  They're shooting for Sunday, August 17th, so check it out if you're in the area.



Well, that's all for now.  My family intends to explore more Maine towns and hidden gems throughout the state that perhaps I can share another time.