N.E. Wanderer: A Day in Boothbay Harbor

Church in Boothbay Harbor

The coastal community of Boothbay Harbor is a tourist Mecca in the summer, so rather than waiting for the season to kick into high gear, we decided to visit a couple days before the first day of summer.

Upon arrival in Boothbay, we made our way to the Maine State Aquarium. It was a bit difficult to find due to the meandering roads around Boothbay, and when we arrived the parking lot was packed. As it turned out our trip coincided with the first race of the lobster boat race series that takes place each year in fishing villages up and down the Maine coast, so spectators were lining the shoreline in front of the aquarium.

Two-toned lobster

Touch tank at the Maine State Aquarium

The aquarium is not very large, but has a number of tanks with marine life native to Maine coastal waters. My favorite was the two-toned lobster.

There were two touch tanks where you could pick up crabs, sand dollars, scallops, and sea urchins. When Bethany picked up the scallop, we watched as it began to close its shell, then all of the sudden it squirted a stream of water right at Ashton, soaking his t-shirt.

The cost was $5 for adults and $3 for children 3-12. You probably wouldn't spend more than 45 minutes there unless perhaps you listened to one of the staff talks. When we arrived a number of people were listening to an educational program about lobsters, but we didn't join in.

After departing the aquarium, we stopped by the Beach Cove Inn around noon to see if by some chance our room was ready, and it was, so they let us check in.

Front of the Beach Cove Inn

We carried our stuff up one flight of stairs to the deluxe rooms overlooking the lake - Yes, I said lake. While the hotel is in Boothbay, it is about a mile away from the hustle and bustle of the harbor area, on a lake that appears to once have been an inlet before the road to Southport Island separated it from the ocean.

View from our deck at the Beach Cove Inn

The view from the deck reminded me more of an inland lodge than a hotel in an oceanside community.

Although the inn had been around for a few years, it was quiet and comfortable thanks to some upgrades, including new paint and new beds.

Our room was huge. It had two queen size beds, a sleeper sofa, flat screen TV, refrigerator, microwave and a big deck. Even with all this furniture, you could have added another bed or two and not been crowded. It was one of the largest rooms I'd seen in a long time and for the price, $99.00 + tax, it was a great value.

It has an outdoor, heated pool that my son used twice, and with a little coaxing, got me to join him the second time. Actually the water temperature was pretty comfortable once you got use to it.

They also have canoes and rowboats you can borrow at no cost, to paddle along the lake, which we did Sunday morning.


Orne's Candy Store

After lunch on the deck of our room, we headed into town to poke around, making sure to stop at Orne's Candy Store right in the heart of the village. Here, my wife and son picked up some rock candy, while I contemplated the chocolates - opting not to succumb to the temptation.

At 3 o'clock we boarded the sightseeing boat Novelty, operated by Balmy Day Cruises, for an hour-long harbor tour. The price was $16 for adults and $8 for children 3-11. It was a warm, breezy day, so we opted for a seat on the open upper deck. The tour included periodic commentary from the captain as we cruised passed Burnt Island Light. If you have time and are looking for an interestnig experience, the Maine Department of Marine Resources does a Living Lighthouse Program that shows what the life of a lighthouse keeper was like in the 1950s. You are transported out to the island, meet the keeper and his family and participate in educational programs related to the marine life and floral and fauna on the island.

For dinner on Saturday night we went to the Lobster Dock. It's the kind of casual place where the menu is hanging on the side of the building and you place your order at a take out window. We chose a seat on the deck overlooking the harbor and our dinner was delivered right to our table. They had a combination of seafood and land food, so we all had a nice meal before heading back to the hotel.

The next day we took a ride around Southport Island, making a stop at an off-the-beaten-path restaurant called Oliver's. It was a new place overlooking the appropriately named Cozy Harbor that is quintessential Maine.

Our overnight in Boothbay Harbor was a relaxing escape. And while it was only 50 miles away, it seemed like another world.