N.E. Wanderer: Bar Harbor Part II

Carriage Trail Family Selfie.

Earlier this summer we took a family trip to Bar Harbor. It was early July and while some questioned our sanity for going to one of Maine’s most popular summer tourist destinations the week after Fourth of July, we didn’t let that stop us.

Granted, it was the opposite end of the spectrum from last summer’s vacation to a sporting camp deep in the north Maine woods in Aroostook County. The great thing about Maine is that we have many vacation alternatives.

After crossing the causeway onto Mt. Desert Island, we made a quick stop at the Acadia National Park Visitor Center to purchase a park pass. But just getting to the visitor center was a “trek” in and of itself. From the main parking lot, you have to hoof it along a paved path and up many stairs, just to get to the building. Inside we purchased our 5-day park pass for $26 and spoke to a ranger about the ranger led programs.

Bar Harbor Inn's Ocean Front Lodge

Next it was off to check in to the hotel. Check in was around 4pm, which was about an hour later than most hotels I’ve been to throughout the country. But after a day or two, I came to realize why. It’s because nobody seems to get up before 9 a.m. in Bar Harbor. I would go out on my bike at 7:30 or 8 a.m. and could ride down the middle of Cottage Street as if it was a dedicated bike lane.

Benjamin Franklin once said, “Early to bed and early to rise, makes a man healthy, wealthy, and wise". We’re an early to bed, early to rise, family and while we’re pretty healthy, we’re still working on the wealthy part. As for the wise part, I discovered that getting up early is the wise way to experience Bar Harbor.

In doing this, I found I didn’t have to share the roads and sidewalks with half the population of Massachusetts and the Carriage Trails in the park were pretty much deserted, save the occasional passerby. Another big surprise is that if you drive to the top of Cadillac Mountain sometime after the sunrise viewers, but before the late-rising visitor, say before 9 o’clock, you practically have the magnificent vistas to yourself. On that day, there were only about half a dozen cars up there. While at the summit, we were on a quest to find the 1,530-foot mark - the highest point on the island. A Ranger directed us to a point away from the high-traffic area where we found the brass marker embedded in the stone.

Straddling the summit of Cadillac Mountain

Ashton and Bethany taking in the views

The other thing that we can add to the “wise” column is to go out to dinner early. Apparently, since people get up later, they also eat dinner later, so if you get out around 5 p.m. you can beat the rush.

A distinguishing factor in the trip’s success, was staying at the Bar Harbor Inn. Not only is it a beautiful waterfront property overlooking Frenchman’s Bay, but you can’t get much more central to the major attractions. We rarely got in the car except to go into Acadia National Park for a spin along the Loop Road, a drive up Cadillac Mountain, biking the Carriage Trails, and a to visit Timber Tina's Great Maine Lumberjack Show.

Our room was on the second floor of the Ocean Front Lodge, boasting a balcony with exceptional views of the bay and an array of Porcupine Islands. It was also a vantage point from which to observe a parade of boat excursions leaving from the harbor. There are whale watches, lobster boat tours and schooners that come and go all day long.

View of Frenchman's Bay from the balcony

View of the Inn and the Shore Path from the balcony

Another advantage was our room's proximity to the pool and hot tub. Ashton really enjoyed the outdoor heated pool, but in my opinion, "heated" was an overstatement. And it wasn't just me who felt that way. Several other guests commented on the pool temperature, so I didn't feel like a complete wimp. The hot tub, on the other hand, was far more comfortable.

Chillin' in the hot tub

Pool at sunset

We were in Bar Harbor from Monday to Friday, but we discovered that the five days and four nights weren't quite enough time to do everything we thought we might do. While visiting, we biked the carriage trails around Eagle Lake. Walked to Bar Island, which gets its name because at low tide you can walk across a sandbar to the island, staying stay high and dry. Took a spin on part of the Loop Road to see Thunder Hole and Otter Cliffs, followed by a tour aboard the schooner Halie and Matthew in the afternoon. Thanks to the brisk winds, we sailed almost all the way out to Egg Rock Light. So close in fact, that the Acadia National Park Ranger who was providing commentary on board, said it's the closest she had gotten to Egg Rock all season.

Bethany and Ashton taking in views from atop Otter Cliffs

Scenic overlook at Thunder Hole

Aboard the Schooner Halie and Matthew

As with most schooners, the crew asked for assistance from the passengers in hoisting the sails. I volunteered and concluded that anyone who had to do that several times every day, was in far better shape than I was. You wouldn't think pulling a rope with half a dozen other people would be a workout, but you'd be wrong.

That evening, we headed back to the mainland for Timber Tina's Great Maine Lumberjack Show. It was a fun and affordable family outing. You can read my Trip Advisor review here.

It was definitely a fun trip, but we'll have to go back to do some of the other stuff we didn't get to this time around.

Parting Photos: